A través de los siglos, la historia del arte se ha encargado de llenar las páginas en blanco de nuestros libros con auténticos sucesos protagonizados por personajes que han dado nacimiento a obras maestras. Estas, a su vez, han dado origen a varios movimientos y estilos artísticos, tales como el Art Nouveau. El Art Nouveau es un fenómeno que surge a finales del siglo XIX y sigue su trayectoria hasta principios del siglo XX en Europa y América.
El Art Nouveau, se caracteriza por su estética, ya que es muy peculiar en sus trazos. Se compone de líneas curvas u ondulantes y orgánicas, con temas que hacen alusión a la naturaleza, llegando a ser sensuales, y dando vida a un glamoroso estilo. Las líneas ondulantes, también conocidas como coup de fouet, o golpe de látigo, son vertiginosas. Rompe con el antecedente arte rectilíneo, porque el movimiento es tan largo y abarca tanto la superficie que permite que estas curvas suaves tomen varios rumbos y de esta manera cambiar su curso. El fenómeno buscaba encontrar nuevas fuentes de inspiración, oponiéndose al arte tradicional. Por lo tanto, ante la pupila de este movimiento, todo objeto debía tener cualidades estéticas. La nueva moda de finales de siglo comenzó a producir en masa. Sin embargo, toda pieza fabricada debía mantener la esencia artística y el elaborado a mano que tanto los definiría.
Otra característica estética única del Art Nouveau, de la cual dependió el movimiento. Es la figura femenina. Estas eran la idealización de la mujer en el momento, representadas, en su mayoría, individualmente, intensas y llenas de fuerza, siendo el centro de importancia en la obra. Sus cabellos estaban compuestos de líneas sinuosas que hacen alusión a la fluidez y sensualidad natural. Estos funcionan como una criatura con vida propia. Sus formas corporales iban acompañadas de exuberantes posturas que marcaban sus curvas. Aunque en algunas obras abundara el erotismo, la sensualidad y sexualidad, las figuras femeninas no eran vulgares, sino que mantenían la esencia sutil, delicada y, tal vez, hasta influidas por la época clásica. Estas fueron el tema principal en los carteles publicitarios que se dirigían a la masa urbana y consumidora.
El cartel publicitario ya era utilizado en París. Varios artistas se habían encargado de propagarlo. Entre ellos se encontraban Jules Cheret, “Job, Papier a Cigarettes y el famoso, Henri de Toulouse- Lautrec, Moulin Rouge: La Goulue”. La paleta de colores de estos artistas era una muy colorida y cubría grandes planos. Sin embargo, no existían gradientes de colores; los mismos eran sólidos y algo caricaturescos. No se puede negar que lograban exitosamente su propósito estético pero no debe haber comparación con el cartel publicitario que Mucha llegó a producir. Ninguno logró tener ese estilo tan único y sensual.
El artista checoslovaco, Alphonse María Mucha, se destacó en el movimiento del Art Nouveau por sus inconfundibles figuras femeninas. Este artista hizo que la masa urbana de París percibiera su figura de la mujer como única. Esto mediante varios componentes, tales como el perfil y el ondulante cabello. También utilizó posturas, manierismos sutiles y atavíos vaporosos. Mucha destacó a estas mujeres de tal manera que, aún sin saber quién fue el autor, el espectador ya reconocía su mano en la obra. El artista logró tener su propio lenguaje respecto a su estilo, ya que, sin duda alguna, fue muy visual. La simbología era un integrante en su arte. Mucha fue fiel a la idea del Art Nouveau, pues logró diseñar ilustraciones que funcionarían como un medio de publicidad para anunciar nuevos productos a la masa consumidora, tales como: artículos y objetos cotidianos, así como jabones, perfumes y cigarrillos incorporando nuevamente la figura femenina.
Al entender y conocer estas características formales, podemos apreciar mejor la obra de Mucha. El cartel de Gismonda, obra protagonizada por la actriz Sarah Benhardt, no carece de originalidad. Las flores que cubren delicadamente su cabello resaltan el estilo propio del artista, al igual que las líneas que marcan los espacios para la organización del afiche. En el fondo se aprecia una clara influencia de los mosaicos bizantinos, puesto que en su litografía se encargó de representar pequeñas teselas doradas que reflejan la luz y crean un sentido de textura, ya que no aparentan estar colocadas de manera plana, es decir, crean un leve relieve. Mucha se encargó de ilustrar un mosaico en donde está escrito el nombre del personaje. No podemos pasar por alto el simbolismo que se encuentra en la parte inferior de la obra, donde el nombre del Theatre de la Renaissance se encuentra inscrito sobre un rollo de papel azul, clara representación de los antiguos manuscritos. Gismonda fue un gran éxito para ambos, el artista y la actriz. Esta producción es solo un pequeño vistazo de la evolución del artista y la importancia en el afiche para las masas.
El cambio de siglo presentó un gran futuro en la dinámica industrial y la masa consumidora. La publicidad del momento ocupa un papel medular, convirtiendo las calles de la ciudad de París en galerías públicas. En cuanto a nuevos clientes, Mucha se toparía con varias compañías que lo contratarían para anuncios publicitarios de distintos productos. Prueba de ello es la Joseph Bardou Company, compañía propietaria de la marca Job. En ella se manufacturaban papeles de cigarrillo. En el 1896, el artista diseñó uno de los afiches más populares dentro de su colección: Afiche para papeles de cigarrillos Job. Para empezar, la ilustración representa la figura femenina como foco de atención, característica típica del Art Nouveau. La misma está compuesta por una de las irremplazables particularidades de Mucha: el serpenteante cabello. La cabellera funciona como un ser con vida propia que acapara gran parte del afiche, mientras las líneas ondulantes dan un sentido de dinamismo.
Mucha creía que un artista siempre debe posicionar puntos de interés en localizaciones que den placer al ojo del espectador. Esta manera de pensar la proyectaba en sus obras, siendo Nectar un ejemplo perfecto. En Nectar, la mujer luce muy cómoda y segura en su postura, pues nos ofrece del licor que sostiene. Es representada con un vestido vaporoso trazado por fuertes contornos y líneas en el interior que dan una sensación de tridimensionalidad. No obstante, el artista se encargo de diseñar las joyas que decorarían su pecho de forma pomposa. Cabe mencionar que la modelo está coronada por delicadas flores. La paleta de colores posee una combinación de colores tales como: rosado, amarillo mostaza y verde oliva, creando una composición algo psicodélica.
Recapitulando el arte de Alphonse Mucha, es medular comprender las características que componen sus afiches publicitarios. La figura femenina fue la protagonista en todo momento, puesto que fue representada constantemente de manera sensual. El artista destacó las sinuosas líneas que lo caracterizan, creando con ellas cabelleras que aparentan tener vida propia.
Además de estos modestos carteles, pudimos ver un lado mas sensual y libre de la figura femenina. Prueba de ello se encuentra en el Afiche para papeles de cigarrillos Job y en Nectar, en donde la mujer luce llena de confianza dentro de su postura manteniendo un aire lleno de seducción hacia el espectador. Las mismas, resaltan su voluptuosidad, sin embargo, no se perciben como vulgares. Finalmente, estas representaciones de la figura femenina tienen en común la gracia que poseen, es decir, todas han sido tratadas con la misma sutileza. La importancia de las flores y el decorado prevaleció en ellas de distintas formas, dando así, simbolismo e importancia a cada afiche.
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